| Jamaica's Mystery
By Jomo Kenyatta
 Underneath
Jamaica's mystery lies its power. Jamaica is a mysterious place. The Rastafarians,
Maroons, East Indians, Chinese, Blacks and the minority of white Europeans lend
to its mystery. The breathtaking scenery, spicy food, rhythmic music and diverse
culture add zest to an already potent recipe. The patois (pronounced pat-wah),
which is a blend of broken English and African dialect, is unique. Jamaica's landscape
and scenery are absolutely stunning. It's no wonder that the Caribbean's third
largest island at one time held the title as the world's most desirable place
to visit.
Jamaica's Blue Mountains may be perhaps one of the best-kept
secrets in the world. Despite Jamaica's economic, drug and political woes, this
wonderland of towering peaks and deep valleys still remains virtually untapped.
It comes as no surprise that the Jamaican government hasn't moved quicker to utilize
this gem within the Caribbean. Jamaica, the Blue Mountains, and those that live
there are probably better off without the corruptible influx of mainstream tourism.
The Blue Mountains are for people who love peace and coffee to say the least.
If you are looking for anything else, then look elsewhere. The air alone will
literally breathe vitality into one's body. The serenity will command the respect
of all admirers of nature. Riding through Mavis Bank and Hagleys Gap en route
to the base of the peak is absolutely refreshing. As a right of passage, off road
vehicles gingerly hug the roads through the myriad of curves, ascents, and descents.
My recent visit to Jamaica's Blue Mountains would commemorate almost
a two-year hiatus from such an austere place. Despite being humbled by these majestic
Mountains and missing the sunrise during my last visit, I returned in hopes of
redeeming myself. Although my intentions were to hike to the peak in the early
hours of the morning, Mother  Nature
made it clear that she had other intentions. That night the temperature dropped
drastically as the wind whipped through the base of the mountain as if it were
racing to reach a warmer climate. Coupled with the Blue Mountain coffee that I
had late that afternoon, the cold and the wind made sleeping a task instead of
a privilege, so I canceled the 2 a.m. wake up time with my guide. Adequate rest
is essential when attempting to successfully accomplish the four-hour one-way
hike to the peak. For those who may be interested in climbing the Blue Mountain
peak, the most ideal times are in the spring and summer. Although Jamaica has
a tropical climate, visits to the Blue Mountains during the winter can be cold.
Not to mention that the few facilities at the base lack warm water.
Knowing
that the view from the peak would not be favorable, I set out late that morning
because I couldn't resist the challenge that the mountain posed. For me, the outdoors
and photography are very therapeutic, especially since I recently resigned from
FedEx after over 14 years of service. Deciding to leave one of the world's most
successful corporations with a family to provide for was difficult to say the
least. This goal commenced while I was working for FedEx in 1995 and I ventured
on my first international photo expedition to Jamaica. The success of that trip
signified what I was meant to do with my life. By choice, Photography is now my
profession and the outdoors my office. Sweating and fatigued, I reached the peak
in the early afternoon with thoughts of the new path that I had chosen weighing
heavily on my mind. Although thick fog and clouds veiled the view from the peak,
the decision was well worth it. At times curiosity has compelled me to wonder
why men would put their lives on the line to climb Mt. Everest in Nepal or K2
on the border of Pakistan and China - - two of the highest peaks in the world.
But deep within I understand that within the human experience lie the thirst for
adventure and the need to challenge one's self.
To overcome fear one
must take courage. I've learned that fear is a dangerous emotion that can immensely
restrict one's true potential. In fact, more often than not, one's own self can
be one's greatest enemy. I'm always reminded of the famous acronym "Fear" which
is derived from the phrase "False evidence appearing real". I've decided to listen
to my inner voice, take courage, leave my comfort zone and pursue my passion,
photography.
After staying in the Blue Mountain region for a few days, I set out to visit the
Legendary Maroons. The Maroons were runaway slaves who resisted the British colonizers
by carrying out hit-and-run attacks from the interior. They became experts at
using herbs for nutritional and medicinal purposes. Nanny of the Maroons is a
national heroine famous for being a spiritual leader and fierce warrior. Monuments
to her remembrance can be found in numerous places on the island. Descendants
of the Legendary Maroons can be found on the island in Scottshall, which is in
the parish of St. Mary; Charlestown, St. Thomas; Mooretown, Portland or, the most
famous of all, Accompong in St. Elizabeth. Accompong is at the foot of what is
called the Cockpit Country. This area of Jamaica was given to the Maroons after
the British Army was literally brought to its knees in 1738 by Captain Kudjoh
or Cudjoe as he was called. Their resistance was so effective that the British
Army requested that a treaty be signed. The Maroons were designated free and were
given this land where many of the wars were fought. My stay in Accompong was both
interesting and educational. Strangely, I felt as if I had been there before.
It was quite an experience. Their feisty spirits and warrior-like mentality can
be aroused if you point your camera in their direction. The Maroons are a very
quiet people who love their freedom and peace. Despite living in a country with
grave economic problems, the citizens of these communities have a greater level
of contentment, peace, and pride than that rarely seen on the island. The Maroons
of old were a very spiritual people and it shows through to their descendants
today.
After leaving Accompong I visited Whitehouse, which is on the south coast, in
the parish of Westmoreland. There I had the opportunity to tour the new Sandals
resort site, which is currently under construction and due to open early in 2004.
The new 350 rooms Whitehouse resort will be unique in comparison to other Sandals
locations. The objective of the Whitehouse resort is to give a purer Jamaican,
cultural, and community oriented experience to visitors of that location. The
new Whitehouse location promises to be impressive to say the least. But the height
of my visit to Whitehouse was observing the crocodiles in the lagoon on the Sandals
property and then watching the fishermen diligently cast and draw in their nets
by hand during the mid-day sun. There's definitely something special about this
part of the island. As the fishermen and children evaluated their healthy catch
they almost paid me no attention while I invaded their privacy.
After
two weeks on the island I literally regretted having to return to the cold and
snow of New York, but thoughts of returning in a month brought a passive smile
to my sun drenched face. Jamaica is a beautiful and mysterious place.
Please
click on thumbnails below for full size images.
Jomo Kenyatta is a freelance travel photographer and writer. He is currently working
on a photo project called "The Caribbean Unseen", which highlights rare cultures
that still exist in the Caribbean. For more information about "The Caribbean Unseen"
please visit www.caribbeanunseen.com
or www.photocentricinc.com.
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