MISSING THE SUNRISE
By Jomo Kenyatta
 Five
years, that's how long it had been since my last photo expedition to the Caribbean's
third largest Island, Jamaica. In eager anticipation of capturing intriguing images
I thought it wise to diligently plan my desired places to photograph. This trip
was made tremendously easier due to the hospitality of my neighbor who is a native
and owns a home in the community of Delveland, in the parish of Westmoreland where
he was raised.
After landing in Montego Bay I quickly removed some clothing
before it permanently adhered to my body and remembered that Jamaica's island
pace has the ability to calm any New Yorker's impatient disorders. Feeling a sense
of suppressed excitement as familiar places and landmarks passed by, the ride
through the countryside brought back instant memories of previous visits. With
my sunglasses in place I could not stop the quiet voice from within proclaiming
that this truly is a beautiful place.
Within only a few minutes of reaching
my destination I quickly whipped out my equipment to take advantage of the myriad
of photographic opportunities. Delveland is a very small quaint community on the
westside of the Island approximately 30 minutes by car from the world famous Negril
Beach.
 Delveland
rests in the heart of one of Jamaica's numerous sugar cane farms. Although Delveland
possesses a paved road, cars are not a common scene. The majority of travel within
this community is by foot, bike, moped, or tractors that are used during harvesting
season. The lifestyle is very slow. Employment opportunities within Delveland
are found primarily in farming during the harvest season. Shopkeepers are not
hard to find. But the majority of work is found within the tourist industry outside
of this quiet community. The culture here is far from euphoric. Jamaica's economic
woes can be seen on their precarious and humble faces. If stress is your diagnosis
then three days in this quiet country village is the cure. Witnessing life in
Delveland will quickly cause any American to immediately enroll and pass a crash
course on contentment.
I've been to Jamaica numerous times and still am
awed by the scenery. Jamaica is mountainous and vast. If you've traveled to Jamaica
and believe that you've seen it all, then think again. The island is full of suprises.
 After
spending a week in Delveland, I traveled east through the countryside to the village
of Lludias Vale in St. Catherine. I've driven through Bamboo Avenue in St. Elizabeth
many times. Upon reaching Lluidas Vale I was amazed at the sight of the numerous
natural bamboo trees and sprouts, the breathtaking scenic views, and the razor
sharp tranquility. If it's Gods will, I will definitely return to Lludias Vale
on my next assignment. Lludias Vale is also a very small community in a very mountains
region approximately 25 miles from both Ocho Rios and Kingston. The lifestyle
in this hidden community is similar to Delveland but more remote. In this village
a jeep is a man's best friend. Men riding on their donkeys are a frequent scene.
Lluidas Vale's claim to fame is that it hosts Jamaica's only totally resourceful
sugarcane factory. The factory is literally powered by the cane waste. A tour
of the factory is recommended for those possessing a sweet tooth. One taste from
the moist and warm extracted brown sugar as it passes on the conveyor belts will
prove to be well worth the tour.
After a few days in Lludias Vale I needed
to experience some adventure before departing the island. Although I've climbed
Dominica's Boiling Lake, the second largest in the world, I could not fathom returning
to the States without climbing and photographing Jamaica's infamous Blue Mountains.
I heard stories about its beauty and majesty, and saw it on television while Jamaica
played South Africa in Cricket at Sabina Park in Kingston, but nothing would prepare
me for the sights, sounds, and experience that will forever be a part of my memory.
The Blue Mountains' popularity is worth every bit of its claim, but is not for
the weak or fainthearted. If you are not a hiker, adventurer, or outdoors person,
it would be prudent to remain at the resort or close to the beach. The journey
to the base alone will only accommodate 4x4 vehicles. If you fear elevations then
you'll experience anxiety attacks as the off road vehicle carouses at times only
an arms length from uncertainty. Besides testing my mental and physical endurance,
my primary objective was to climb to the peak to photograph a sunrise.
Accomplishing this goal entailed departing the lodge at the mountain's base in
the village called Mavis Bank at 2:00 AM. From the lodge it's a three and a half
hour extremely steep hike to reach the peak, so I thought it wise to rest my tired
body and mind before embarking. The proximity of this historic lodge that had
been built in the 1800's was so remote that it did not even possess electricity.
Kerosene lamps and my pocket flash light were the only illumination resources
available. After a hardy Jamaican meal I put my head down to prepare for the journey.
Sleeping in this lodge was like taking a course on practicality. Residing in this
lodge was still a stark reminder of how people use to live and how some still
live in Jamaica to this very day.
At 1:30 AM, a knock sounded at my door followed by a deep voice asking if, " I
was ready?" I was ready because I couldn't sleep. Hopeton, my guide, came for
me in the stark darkness and told me he would be outside. As I prepared to leave
I asked God to keep me safe and help me accomplish my goal of reaching the top
and capturing a spectacular sunrise. This early morning was unusually warm. I
arose, grabbed my equipment and iced water and we departed into the darkness.
The stars shined like well-polished diamonds and lit our way. The initial ascent
was extremely steep. The 25 pounds of camera equipment that I carried on my back
soon felt like 75 pounds and I quickly wished I had trained harder for this trip.
The thick foliage quickly covered the open sky view during our ascent. The trees
covered our mountain trail so densely that we needed flashlights to light our
way. I stripped off clothing to prevent sweating but would later return every
article I took off to its original place. As we ascended higher and higher the
air became thinner and the temperature dropped dramatically.
Half way
into the climb I looked at my GPS (Global Positioning System) that gave me the
exact time of sunrise and realized we were behind time. My backpack became even
more burdensome as I tried to keep a constant pace with my guide. Prior to our
departure, Hopeton had not been made aware that I was a travel photographer and
would have equipment, heavy equipment at that. He offered to carry my bag but
told him I would go further then take him up on his offer. Reluctantly, I accepted
his offer. I soon took the lead as my pack slowed his pace down like a turtle
in a race with the hare. I knew we were drawing closer to the peak as daylight
began to appear. I earnestly tried to push harder to reach the top in time to
capture the sunrise from atop Jamaica's highest peak.
 Sweating
profusely, my objective turned from capturing a spectacular sunrise to making
it to the top. Hearing others who were already on top singing gospel songs that
echoed through the canons gave me inspiration to press on. My mental endurance
was being tested. I did not give into the temptation to quit. I remembered back
to when Hopeton pointed out the halfway point and stated that, " many people stop
at this lookout point, turn back, call it quits, and never finish," and I stating
adamantly, 'that were not going to quit.' Confidence turned into disappointment
as the darkened sky lightened and I realized that I would not accomplish my ultimate
goal.
We drew closer to the top and heard people joyously shout and yell
as they observed the sun rise from the sea. As we reached the top and headed to
the lookout point I was exhausted from pushing so hard to make up time and could
only walk to the lookout point. Upon reaching the lookout point I quickly began
to setup my equipment pleasantly distracted and awed by the sight of the radiant
sun standing between the clouds. The sun rose so quickly and began to tower above
the clouds terminating any hope of capturing a postcard image. Extremely fatigued
and cold due to the high elevation (4800 feet), I laughed as a young man yelled,
"does anyone have any gloves?"
 I
quickly set up my equipment hoping to record this spectacular sight. The cold
weather, exhaustion and disappointment slowed me down as I shot as much as I could.
After recording some breathtaking scenery and realizing my opportunity of capturing
a sunrise was over I took advantage of the sun's rays, which warmed up my cold
body. We were literally above the clouds. As I continued to snap away a curious
gentleman came over to me and quietly said to me that, "you just missed it, it
was amazing." He described what happened as the sun rose out of the sea and said
he felt God's power. Upon hearing those words my heart sank, as I remained silent
and looked at him.
After photographing the scenery we quickly departed
sense this was my last day on the island and I had to catch my flight back to
the States. As I observed the scenery during our descent there was some fulfillment
in reaching the top but my inner being was not satisfied. I quietly said within
myself that if its Gods will, I must return to capture on film a Blue Mountain
peak sunrise.
For more information about the photographic work of Mr.
Kenyatta, please visit his website: www.photocentricinc.com
© 2002 Jomo Kenyatta. All rights reserved.
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